"Tyson Steltzer 97 points
PN returns to its Verzenay origins (as per its first iterations as VZ15 and VZ16, followed by TX17 and AYC18). 2019 ranks among the best of Champagne’s recent vintages and the cool, north-eastern slopes of Verzenay uphold compelling tension in the midst of a warming climate. The result is a magnificent juxtaposition between the rumbling, billowing depths of ripe pinot noir like only Bollinger can conjure, thanks to the presence and magnitude of primarily Aÿ and also Avenay-val-d’Or, Tauxières, and Mutigny, and the pristine definition and lifted freshness of vibrant fruit that characterises Verzenay. Boasting a medium straw hue, it wells up with deep black and red cherry fruit, satsuma plum, blackberries and layers of anise and sarsaparilla. Barrel fermentation and a record 25 percent of reserve magnums lend their characteristic creaminess and subtle patisserie complexity, but it is the fine chalk minerality of Verzenay chalk that remains the hero of a long finish, upholding magnificent texture, tension and crystalline brightness like no other pinot village.
Richard Juhlin 93-95 points
Unsurprisingly, the 2019 base year with its richness once again received mineral-influenced Verzenay (40%) as the base terroir when Aÿ produced slightly too rich wines. The reserve wines on the magnum once again go all the way down to the tasty 2009 vintage all from Verzenay. Aÿ, Louvois, Bisseuil, Avenay, Tours-sur-Marne, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Mutigny stand for the background chords. Currently, the champagne charms through its complex and youthfully energetic bouquet of peach peel, gooseberry, cox orange apples, sea buckthorn, geranium and marigolds. The texture is at the same time softly ripe and velvety. The breadth of flavours is magnificently orchestrated and each new sip brings additional aromas at hand. The potential alcohol content was record high from the start especially in Aÿ with 11.1 % straight away and Denis, just like me, sees great similarities between 2015 and 2019, but where the sharpness and freshness is better in 2019. It is not the acidity but rather the mineral salt that gives the freshness together with the sense of umami the concentrated grapes give. Here there is a swirl of exotic fruit and honey, but also a dry smokiness that I've learned to associate with the cluster of aromas that transforms over time into the note of railway on a hot summer's day. It might sound fuzzy, but it actually makes perfect sense. The combination of heated rail, dry gravel, dandelions and nettles that thrive in the embankment gives a concentrated warm dryness that is strongly reminiscent of the character the grapes acquire when the temperature crosses the vine's pain point on a few hot summer days. 41 degrees in the shade was a heat record in Champagne and especially a lot of shade, the vineyards in Champagne cannot boast of so the effect is reminiscent of that which arose in 1947, 1959, 1976 and 2003. Hence this aroma albeit less marked in 2019. Let's see if I'm right in 10 years when I expect that "the famous note of Railroad track" will appear in this beauty. PN VZ19 is tasted with great pleasure and intellectual challenge straight away, but personally, as usual, I will wait as long as I can before opening my own bottles to get the increasing depth of butter-fried cepp and toasted hazelnut aromas that only aging can provide.
Essi Avellan MW 94-95 points
On the ripe but fresh and harmonious harvest year 2019, Bollinger chose Verzenay as the pillar of its PN cuvée. A warm year needed the freshness from northern facing terroirs, thus 40% of the blend come from the Verzenay, including a hefty 25% of reserve wine magnums from 2009. The rest of the blend is made up by the other Bollinger hallmark crus Aÿ, Avenay-Val d’Or, Tauxières and, for the first time ever, Mutigny. All in all, 2019 represents 52% of the blend with a hefty addition of reserve wines, 48%. The first nose already comes across sweetly expressive with many aromatic assets. The dominant fruit is ripe yellow peach, which the 50% oak fermented wine complements with spicy mineral nuances, yet very few oxidative tones. If the nose promised ripeness, the palate counterbalances it by its lovely linearity and saline, scintillating nervosity. The warmth of the year can be sensed the textured fleshiness and juicy-fruity power. At the same time the wine projects immaculate precision and length.
100 % Pinot Noir, Principaly from Verzenay, blended with other villages including Aÿ, Avenay, Louvois, Mutigny and Tauxières. Base year: 2019, oldest wine in the blend: 2009. Dosage 6g/l"
PN VZ19 is a 100% Pinot-Noir from Grand Cru vineyards in Verzenay based on the 2019 vintage, to which reserve wines from earlier vintages have been blended. This has wonderful depth, elegance and tension with a refreshing long saline finish, and residual sugar of 6gl
Bollinger are famed for their Pinot Noir so there is little surprise that its signature rich, open style shines through. The wonderful smoky, nutty and caramel tones imparted by Bollinger’s distinct foudre ageing are already present and the reserve wines, aged for up to 10 years en magnum, add to its exceptional aromatic intensity.
2019 was a hot year which made for a hot, dry vintage. Alternating periods of hot and cold weather began in winter, with temperatures rising to 20°C in February. In April and May, spring frosts hit 1000ha of vineyards in Champagne, which mildly affected Bollinger’s vineyards in Aÿ and Cuis. This spring weather gave way to rainy conditions, forcing the Maison’s teams to be vigilant faced with the threat of mildew. Flowering was delayed by these changeable weather conditions, which were followed by heat waves and are record high temperature of 41°C on the 25th of July. Sunburned grape clusters reduced yields still further and drought conditions during August and September encouraged grapes to ripen quickly. Despite the difficult weather conditions through out the year, the harvest was remarkable. Thanks to their crop of extremely healthy grapes, Bollinger could expect a beautifully ripe vintage which gave rise to a delicate, complex wine.
