"Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.com
89-90 Points – 4 Stars
Pale lemon and lime. Racked on its lees in July. The bouquet gives an immediate sense of concentration. A strong core of pure white stone fruit, with a clean fresh and concentrated finish, excellent persistence for this level. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Nov 2024.
86-89 Points Allen Meadows, Burghound.com
Outstanding Top value – sweet spot ♥
Aromas of petrol, straw and various white orchard fruit are complemented by lush but punchy flavors that conclude in a mildly rustic that displays solid depth and persistence. This is quite good for its level and it's slightly more structured than the average example as well for those who like to age their Bourgogne"
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com
As I have pointed out several times over the last few years, the domaine formerly called Bernard Moreau has been split between as brothers Alex and Benoît (see that section immediately below). In another important change, up through and including the 2022 vintage, the domaine Alex exploited was comprised by 10.5 ha, but it is losing a long-term lease so as of the 2023 vintage, the vines under its control will total 5.8 ha. He did hint though that he was on the verge of signing a long-term lease for more vines plus we know from the de Montille transaction (see above) that he picked up vines in Volnay Les Carelles and in Monthélie. How much all of them total I don't know but it will certainly be interesting to see. With respect to the 2023 growing season, Moreau had an interesting take in that he described it as having "three growing seasons in one as we started out much like 2022 as it was precocious, hot and dry and then conditions turned cool and somewhat cloudy. Moreover, we had a huge fruit set and the bunches swelled rapidly. With that much fruit hanging in the vines and the less than ideal weather, we began to wonder if ripeness levels were going to be adequate, especially since the first half of August, which is normally very hot, wasn't. Then, in seemingly the blink of an eye, temperatures rose to blazing in the second half of August and we were back to a vintage like 2003 where maturities exploded. We chose to begin picking a few parcels on the 31st of August and then really got rolling on September 2nd as I was afraid of having too much sugar and not enough acidity. Moreover, the inferno-like temperatures were causing the berries to dehydrate, and that's not a good thing for wine quality. Oddly, the most exposed berries would dehydrate only to swell again the next morning from the abundant dew. Frankly, the harvest was incredibly fatiguing as you were constantly trying to be everywhere at once. At least the chardonnay was spotless, which was not the case for the pinot, so we were able to both pick and process it quickly. Yields were very good at between 50 to 55 hl/ha for the chardonnay with very reasonable potential alcohols of 12.7 to 13.1%. Another curious aspect is that despite the fruit being clean and with reasonable alcohols, the primary fermentations took forever to finish. As to the wines, in the same fashion as 2022, the growing season in and of itself, only provides a rough idea of what the wines themselves will resemble. One would reasonably expect a hot and relatively dry season to produce alcoholic and flabby whites but, again like 2022, not at all what they're like. I quite like them as they're fresh, transparent and vibrant plus they should both be reasonably approachable young but I see no reason why they should age well too at least over the medium-term." And, as was the case in 2022, it's worth pointing out that 2023 was a particularly good vintage for the domaine and these are wines to seek out.
