"95 Points - Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous.com
Round and elegant, the 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc bursts from the glass with lively aromas of honeysuckle, acacia, dried lemon and orange peel, white peach, mango and a pinch of fresh ginger. Full-bodied, oily-textured and concentrated, this is a delicious Clos des Papes Blanc. Already drinking splendidly today, it will provide pleasure over the next 10 years. Drinking Window 2022 - 2035, March 2023"
Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous.com
Paul-Vincent Avril, who likes to be called Vincent to avoid confusion with his father Paul, is in his 36th vintage at Clos des Papes. After studying for five years at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune, Avril expanded his winemaking skills by working at several wineries, among them Château Mouton Rothschild in Bordeaux, Domaine Ott in Bandol and Mount Mary Vineyard in Australia’s Yarra Valley. When Avril joined Clos des Papes in 1987, he convinced his father to replace the vertical press with a pneumatic press. According to Avril, this technology brought various benefits, including the ability to program and adjust the pressure applied as per the required level of extraction. Avril can set the machine to exert lighter or greater pressure for less or more extraction. Most importantly, though, it helps avoid the over-extraction of tannins and bitterness from softened skins and seeds that may have been soaking in the must for several weeks.
Historically, Avril has worked with average yields of 20hL/ha, which is considerably lower than most of his peers and the 35hL/ha limit set by the AOC. In the 2021 vintage, Avril lost 40% of his usual crops due to spring frost in April, resulting in a minuscule 15hL/ha for his wines. Avril has recently replanted 0.5 hectares of Grenache with Cinsault, a variety seeing increased interest over the past years in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Cinsault can balance out the ripe fruit aromas of Grenache and contributes a lower alcohol content, adding freshness to the final blend. I can't recall a single instance of tasting a Clos des Papes falling short of expectations. Even in the face of more challenging vintages such as 1997, 2002 or 2008, when other producers fell behind, Clos des Papes consistently delivered. What impresses me most is that they maintain this level of quality with just two offerings, just a red and white, without relying on any extravagant cuvées. Essentially, Clos des Papes wines are expressive and savory, exhibiting aromatic complexity, firm structure and ample depth.
