Joel B. Payne, Vinous.com
Since the 2004 vintage, Dr. Carl von Schubert has been slowly and steadily crafting the renaissance of this beautiful estate, which was once not only the finest on the Ruwer but also one of the stars of the entire Mosel. With the 2008 vintage, his new winemaker Stefan Kraml has finally put his imprint on the wines, which are pure, intensely delicate and finely nuanced-from the dry old-vine riesling to the superb eiswein. Hats off!
A pronounced aroma of green peel and zesty lime. The palate reveals a wonderfully harmonious combination of ripe peach and succulent apple fruit, punctuated by a zesty dart of acidity. Terrific purity and an intensity that is well matched to race. Nothing short of impeccable balance - a very fine, intense example that goes on and on, simply refusing to fade on the tongue!
Located on steep, south-facing slopes two kilometres from where the river Ruwer meets the Mosel, the estate of Maximin Grünhaus has a history of viticulture that dates back to Roman times. It takes its name from the Abbey of Saint Maximin, a Benedictine monastery which owned the land from the 7th to the 18th century. Passing into French administration under Napoleon and then eventually to the von Schubert family in the late 19th century, the estate is now overseen by sixth-generation family member Maximin Von Schubert, who took over from his father Carl Von Schubert in 2014.
A Riesling specialist, the property is divided into three separate, but contiguous vineyards, each with their distinct microclimate, gradients and soils: the Abtsberg, the Herrenberg, and the Bruderberg. Winemaker Stefan Kraml, who has been with the estate since 2004, focuses on expressing the character of the Riesling from each plot.
The 19-hectare Herrenberg vineyard lies near the Grüneberg forest and is traditionally viewed as a cooler site than neighbouring Abtsberg. The Rieslings produced from the red Devonian slate soils here were once regarded as second to those from Abtsberg but, with the shifting climate in recent years, have achieved distinction in their own right and will age beautifully over decades.
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