"Greg Sherwood MW 95/100
If 2018 produced a super taut, reductive serious expression and 2019 showed a lusher, more forward, accessible opulence, then 2020 is perhaps a marriage of these two styles. This is a wine full of confidence and composure, brimming with taut white citrus pith, green pear and lime peel, bruised green apples, white blossom and a complexing saline oyster shell minerality. On the palate there is a feel of density, dry extract, concentration and a really precise harmonious balance with layers of green melon, sweet lime jelly, melted butter and a full glycerol finish with just the faintest hint of butterscotch, lime cordial and vanilla pod spice. Seemless and sleek, the layers just melt into each other leaving a sensation of utter completeness. What a truly fabulous wine, resplendent in its mellow classical restraint, intense concentration and harmonious length. A big high five for Emul Ross!! 9 April 2021"
The most southerly vineyards in South Africa belong to Hamilton Russell based in Walker Bay. Only two varieties are grown here: 22 Ha of Pinot Noir vines, and 30 Ha of Chardonnay, in contrast with the usual new world model of growing perhaps 10 different varieties, with no attempt to concentrate on the varieties that best suit the terroir available. Small yields and meticulous vinification ensure the resultant wines are outstanding and Anthony Hamilton-Russell has a justifiable reputation as the Capes Burgundian style specialist. An exceptional new world take on Puligny-Montrachet.
