2017 Cantayano, Isaac Cantalapiedra, Rueda, Spain
This delivers a deep, complex bouquet with bags of personality, revealing a nose of pear, peach stone, wild fennel, beeswax, saline and a nice herbal touch of lemongrass. On the palate the wine is pure, focused and very full-bodied for Verdejo, with a rock solid core, excellent minerality, fresh acidity and outstanding length and grip on the vibrant and still quite youthful finish.
You may call young winemaker, Manuel Cantalapiedra, a rebel or even a freedom fighter but most importantly he is a farmer with a clear vision for the style of Verdejo he wants to make in Castilla y Leon. He shares a passion for this grape with his father, who he named the winery after, and with his neighbours, but this is where the common interest ends and the rebellion begins. Harvesting later, organically and from single vineyard plots, his wines demonstrate power and finesse in equal measure. His heart and his vineyards lie in the centre of DO Rueda, yet his wines are miles ahead of the appellation.