Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Rossignol Trapet
A wonderfully fresh nose is more restrained than that the Latricières with an even earthier array of deeply pitched black currant, plum and violent scented aromas that are again trimmed in gentle wood nuances. The overtly muscular and attractively stony big-bodied flavors possess solid mid-palate concentration that does a fine job of buffering the firm supporting tannins on the moderately austere, persistent and slightly better balanced finish. This backward effort will likely need 12 to 15 years to reveal its full potential.
Neal Martin, erobertparker.com 91-93/100; The 2013 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, which is matured in 40% new oak, has a more complex bouquet than the Latricieres-Chambertin '13 at present with that marine leitmotif returning here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, good body and energy with touches of orange rind toward the harmonious finish. This is one of the standouts from Rossignol-Trapet this year. Excellent. Reviewed Jan 2015
Neal Martin erobertparker.com, Jan 2015; ....There is much more refinement and precision nowadays and I feel that Rossignol-Trapet is a name that now deserves higher respect. “It was quite a difficult vintage in the beginning: wet and cold,” Nicolas explained. “It was not very warm and in June a lot of old vines were affected by poor flowering. In September, the sugar was very slow to accumulate, but the tannins achieved phenolic ripeness in the end. We started picking on 6 October and lasted only 5 days, one of the shortest we have ever had. This was because of the pressure of rot. The millerandage meant that on some days there was not so much to sort. The quantity in 2013 is only 15% more than 2012 that was our lowest ever! We sorted in the vineyard and in the winery (on a vibrating sorting table), especially for the younger vines. This year we used a Pellenc destemmer that does not crush the berries and this was a great help. The vinification was not very complicated, with a small amount of pigeage, 6 or 7 times only with daily remontage, a little more at the end in order to prevent reduction. The malolactics finished between February and April as the cellars are not so cold. We don’t add a lot of sulfur because we are certified by Demeter who limit its use to 70-milligrams.”
These were mainly superb follow-ups to their 2012s, even if one or two of their vineyards were touched by hail. At the top end those grand crus really prove their class, in particular the Chapelle-Chambertin and Chambertin itself. Perhaps the premier crus do not quite have the class of their 2012s, but wines like the Gevrey la Petite Chapelle punch above their weight. Overall, I was immensely pleased with these 2013s and, given that they tend to be more reasonably priced than other Gevrey growers, they come highly recommended.
Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens, Domaine Joseph Voillot
AB - Deep still, with a wonderful dark violet spicy, silky nose. The palate has structure and finesse and needs time to come together. Lovely flavour and builds beautifully. Very pure.
Neal Martin 91-93/100; The 2013 Pommard 1er Cru les Rugiens has a gorgeous, floral bouquet that just blossoms in the glass with violet-infused black cherries and raspberry aromas. This is beautiful and very pure. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, tensile tannins, plenty of spice and white pepper decorating the structured finish that lingers long in the mouth. 'tis a but a hail-defying success! erobertparker.com 2014
This domaine remains below the radar yet is consistently one of the highlights of our trip to Burgundy. These are wines of intense purity and finesse with no shortage of lush fruit and should be staples in all Burgundy lovers’ cellars, particularly those who like to pull corks within five years of vintage.